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(2013-07-24, 12:40:27 AM)shadowbolt82 Wrote: [ -> ]
(2013-07-23, 02:52:08 PM)Luis_GT Wrote: [ -> ]I was driving this for the past month


the FR-S is far more nimble... and a whole lot more comfortable... and the mustang is still the worst car I've ever owned... Trollestia I would have given the 5.0 a chance... but my knees still hit the dash... and the cheap ass interior pisses me off... no offense

M3, nice! Raritystarry Of course the FR-S is more nimble, it's like 600 pounds lighter lol.

I've been a Mustang fanboy my whole life and I would not own a 05-10 Mustang. Only reason I got mine is because of the 5.0 and the much improved handling over the older mustangs. I hated the interior in the 05-09 cars, but they've improved it a lot since then. Still not great, but I can live with it now.

That would be 1100 pounds... the m3 is a vert... lol... I've driven the coupe with DCT as well... but that was on the m school.
hiigaran, I have a MIG welder that I'm running without gas now. Need flux core wire for that. It's not very clean, but it gets the job done. Doesn't work great with thin metal though. Cost $200 at Harbor Freight here, and they have a cheaper flux core only welder for $100.

I used my electric drill to port my intake. My hands didn't swell up but they went numb after a while. And I think my ears are still ringing lol.

I want that VW as my daily driver. Would be great for tailgaters Pinkiehappy
Damn right it would! And the best part about that car is that it is apparently street legal!

I'm aware that you need a special roll of wire for gasless MIG welding. How thin is too thin, though? And what about thicker metal? Would the quality be any different? I assume it's bad with thin metal, because it would punch a hole through it, so I'm assuming gasless would be better on thicker metals, assuming the heat penetrates further down.
http://www.airgas.com/content/details.as...0000000143

I tried welding some really thin stuff, either 18 or 20 gauge, with .035" flux core and it kept burning through on the lowest settings. I'm terrible at welding so I burn through a lot of things though. Filling in the holes is good practice I guess, lol.

My welder and cart that I built.
I've heard if you're good with flux core welding you'll feel like a pro after switching to MIG. It's much easier and cleaner with gas, but I'm too cheap to pay for the gas setup for how little I actually use the welder.
So I'm browsing through eBay and looking at the OBD2 to USB cables, and I notice that the software that comes with these cables is shitty in terms of compatability (unless I want to go for something more expensive). Now since these appear to be nothing but cables, and all I have to do is connect it up to a computer to let the diagnostic software check things, I'm thinking I should look around to see if I can obtain the software through...other methods.

I don't suppose anyone knows of any good diagnostic software that has a wide compatability range? Or simply put: What's the best?
(2013-08-02, 01:58:43 AM)hiigaran Wrote: [ -> ]So I'm browsing through eBay and looking at the OBD2 to USB cables, and I notice that the software that comes with these cables is shitty in terms of compatability (unless I want to go for something more expensive). Now since these appear to be nothing but cables, and all I have to do is connect it up to a computer to let the diagnostic software check things, I'm thinking I should look around to see if I can obtain the software through...other methods.

I don't suppose anyone knows of any good diagnostic software that has a wide compatability range? Or simply put: What's the best?

The problem is that every make uses a different diagnostic software, so a multi-brand compatible one is either extremely rare or non existent...

For example, BMW uses DIS/GT1 software (Dealer) or INPA (third party)... and both of those programs are only for BMW. I've yet to be able to run DIS/GT1 as it's basically almost an OS in itself and just haven't bothered with it since INPA does a good job.

An OBD2 cable will work on any car that has OBD2 though... the limiting factor is the diagnostic software as you point out.
So as far as hardware is concerned, I need nothing more than the cable, which is a simple adapter of OBD2 to USB (ie, no hidden internal components along the cable), and a computer, yes? I can just 'obtain' the software as necessary, if one does not exist to support all makes and models?
(2013-08-02, 04:38:30 AM)hiigaran Wrote: [ -> ]So as far as hardware is concerned, I need nothing more than the cable, which is a simple adapter of OBD2 to USB (ie, no hidden internal components along the cable), and a computer, yes? I can just 'obtain' the software as necessary, if one does not exist to support all makes and models?

I have a OBD2 to serial, connected to a serial to USB adapter and it works brilliantly... I need to find a diagnostic tool for my FR-S and see if the cable still works, but the OBD2 cable has a small circuit board inside the plug to convert the data from the car into data that the software can read.
Okay, so there is something in the cable. Is the USB data output universal to all software that would read the data?
(2013-08-02, 05:32:46 AM)hiigaran Wrote: [ -> ]Okay, so there is something in the cable. Is the USB data output universal to all software that would read the data?

I'm guessing yes... I will check my cable with the FR-S once I find a diagnostic software for it.
Installed this to give my car a nice interior upgrade

[Image: 20130730_001449_zps5e2ddde2.jpg]

[Image: IMG_20130801_185158_zps1cba3ecb.jpg]
I have an OBD2 bluetooth adapter and I use Torque Pro for Android. Haven't tried checking codes yet, but I used it for data logging at my last track day. Works pretty well for that.
Linky, https://play.google.com/store/apps/detai...rque&hl=en
Who needs a dashboard anymore?
Finally! My car has an official nameplate! Heart

[Image: 20130813_181341_zps454ca54d.jpg~original]
[video=youtube]http://youtu.be/V8dayNyJYvk[/video]
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